Day 35: Pentonbridge to Gretna Green 14 miles

We had a delicious tasting menu last night at the Pentonbridge Inn and things were similar at breakfast! Sadly, a packed lunch could not be provided, but this was the least of our worries today in ‘Heatwave: the return’.

We set off down the road, eventually arriving at a slightly concealed, but clearly used, footpath. For the first half mile or so, it was reasonably good underfoot albeit with stiles bony trapped with, among other things, barbed wire. Eventually though, we come to a completely impassable ‘jungle’ where the footpath should be, defended by yet more barbed wire. We shin over a tree, as it looks as if other people have done which leads into what Rich describes as ‘a barbed wire trip hazard’. Needless to say, I catch my bootlace on it and spend a little while extricating myself carefully to avoid injury. We meander along between the path and the fields either side until we arrive at the road.

We now have to reach and cross the river Esk. There are four river Esks in the UK, two of which run through Cumbria. This one is known as the Border Esk. There are three nearby crossings: the A7 road bridge, a swing bridge near Kirkandrew and the disused Thistle aqueduct. There are no rights of way across the last two. Chris and Zoe have driven round to look at the aqueduct but can’t reach it, they find the swing bridge but don’t know what’s on the other side and are confronted by a posh man when they are quite legitimately on the riverside footpath. He evidently thinks that they are poachers!

Given their intelligence, we opt for the swing bridge, but are deterred by the private property, keep out signs at Netherby Hall. We stop on the verge for a break, finally eating the mango Richard bought on impulse in the Alston co-op. Afterwards, we walk along the road to Longtown and the A7 bridge.

Longtown looks quiet, but we go into the Graham Arms to look for lunch. The Grahams were the local landowners for centuries, owning Netherby Hall, but this has now been sold as a second home. It was a blog we read written by Gavin Graham that enticed us to look at the aqueduct and the swing bridge. It may be, however, that he felt he had more right to ignore the no entry signs than we did.

The Graham Arms looks a bit unprepossessing from the outside, but it turns out to be an oasis, with a warm welcome and lovely sandwiches. Then it’s off briefly on the A7 then we take the A6071 which has a pavement, at least to start with. We pass the Longtown munitions store, replete with Beware Razor Wire and Guard Dog signs.

Finally, we turn off onto an unclassified road and enter Scotland when we cross the river Sark. Gretna Green is south west from Pentonbridge, but we need to be further west and it’s a good stopping point. We’re staying at Smiths, which is opposite the famous blacksmiths where English brides once ran away to get married without their parents’ permission. The hotel has a wedding on and the bride comes out to chat with us. She looks beautiful and we look hot, sweaty and travel worn.

Total distance so far: 419 miles