We begin the day along a short stretch of the A17 which actually has a verge and is relatively benign. We then turn left towards Tydd Gote until we reach a bridleway alongside South Holland Main Drain. This starts clogged up with chickweed, but soon becomes an attractive waterway to compensate for missing part of the Nar Valley Way on day one.
The path is comfortable and green underfoot: the landscape has become steadily more lush since we crossed the Great Ouse, later leaving Norfolk, Britain’s driest (and currently completely desiccated) county. We see moorhens, a mute swan, a grey heron, buzzards, a kestrel, sedge warblers and even a meadow pipit, as well as an enormous dead rat.
We stop for a break just before Britain’s lowest road, the A1101, which barely gets above sea level. It is also the longest four-digit A road and one of the most dangerous. It comprises the familiar East Anglian features of long straights with sudden, sharp bends plus narrow carriageways lines with hidden deep ditches. All this combined with regular flooding. In 2007, the A1101 was closed for 70 days because of flooding. The Environment Agency said this was ‘to be expected’. The road, like the A17 before it, is kind to us today though.
We continue along the drain, deep into the heart of the fens. This is where fenskating was born with bone skates cutting along the frozen, flooded landscape in mediaeval times. Later, the sports of bandy and ice cricket developed here, with exponents such as William ‘Turkey’ Smart, William ‘Gutta Percha’ See and George ‘Fish’ Smart. James Smart even became our only World Champion speed skater.
We leave the Drain and start to cross country roads and fields. We spot Holbeach in the distance, looking like an intrusion in the Ukrainian flag (Rich has been looking to take a ‘Ukrainian flag’ picture all morning). We stop for lunch on a pretty bridleway that has no shelter unfortunately as it’s quite sunny today. As we finish eating, we see a John Deere golf buggy type vehicle trundling slowly towards us. As it approaches, we spy a small Jack Russell galloping along in front of it. The driver is an elderly man with limited mobility who uses his vehicle to walk his dog. After a brief chat, he turns around and his dog rushes along to catch up and take the lead of this unlikely procession.
We move on looking for a shadier spot to continue our rest. We find some shady cherry trees by a small road and settle down for a nap. This has been a feature of our days so far, allowing us to completely cool off and recharge our batteries on these hot days. In fairness, Rich has taken to having a post-prandial nap when he’s working from home in any case; not something I can do as yet on the NHS.
We arrive in Holbeach quite early at the lovely Elloe Lodge. Holbeach looks plump and comfortable from its living off the land; quite a contrast from the slight air of despondency in Sutton Bridge where the port has recently closed.
We’ll need an early night tonight as it’s a long way to Boston tomorrow. Our host has recommended a nearby Indian restaurant for dinner and I can’t wait!
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