We have a great breakfast and leave Crianlarich to regain the Way. I’m sorry not to have spent more time in Crianlarich, we received a very warm welcome there both at Craigbank and at the Crianlarich Hotel. We discover later that the ‘takeaway’ is used to circumvent Scottish Sunday licensing laws.
We climb up through the plantation again to the high path, accompanied by a raven. We spotted some hooded crows near Loch Lomond but have seen none since. The path follows on through forests where I catch a glimpse of a white-tipped bushy tail. A red squirrel comes squarely into view before bolting up a tree. Maybe the forests aren’t so bad after all.
Ben More still looks majestic through the trees. I hanker after climbing it because it’s so big (also quite high at 1174 metres). Rich doesn’t want to because it’s so big. He wants to climb Ben Lui (1130 metres) as it’s so shapely; I don’t want to for the same reason. Make of that what you will. We follow the path along Strathfillan into Tyndrum, watching grey wagtails in the water on the way and also finding a redpoll (a first for me).
Strathfillan is named after St Fillan as he founded a church here. He was born in Ireland and was evidently the son of St Kentigerna, who founded a religious community at Loch Lomond. The legend goes that when he was building the church, a wolf killed the ox that was bringing the materials and St Fillan persuaded the wolf to take up the ox’s burden. There is now a holy pool nearby, which we didn’t visit on this occasion. St Fillan then spent most of his life in a cave in Fife. He is the patron saint of the mentally ill and at one time sufferers were bound and left alone in the cave overnight in hope of a cure. Thankfully, this practice has fallen out of favour.
We stop in Tyndrum and have a sugar-free Irnbru, then head off up the hill again. We walk along the plateau, rounding a corner to reveal Ben Dorain, another of Richard’s favourites, and the massif collectively known as the Black Mount. We have climbed here in the past and debate on whether or not the highest peak we can see is Creise (1100 metres) which we traversed along with its neighbours thirty years ago. Even looking at the map later, we’re not sure.
We have lunch at the top of the pass then continue onwards on an old military road. The A82, the railway and the West Highland Way all use the pass as it’s the only one and, as it narrows, they all converge until the summit is crossed and the plateau widens again. It’s an easy yomp down from here into Bridge of Orchy, where we are staying tonight. The receptionist asks for my first name as there are two Meyers booked in tonight. The other is one of a pair of German women we have been cross-crossing past for most of the day as we have taken our breaks. It’s a friendly place, the West Highland Way.
Total distance so far: 636 miles
PS trouble uploading photos yesterday and today. I’ll add then when I can.
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