We have a great breakfast at the Dornie Hotel, then set off north west along the A87. There are two possible unclassified roads we can take and we choose the first, although this will require finding a path to connect the two roads at its end.
When we get to the end of the road, we discover that there is a new garden with a 'Private' sign blocking the way to the path. In Scotland, there is a right to roam over the countryside but gardens are exempt and, as footpaths are not generally listed as rights of way as they are in England and Wales, a path can be immediately lost if a new property installs a garden.
We start to walk along the shoreline of Loch Long but, after a short way, the rock becomes sheer and we move back inland. There is a faint path that we follow past the tricky section then finish up on the shore again. Loch Long is a sea loch but grass and bladderwrack seem to be sharing the peaty shore. We reach the second unclassified road which we follow the length of the loch. Loch Long is part of the Marine Protection Area and there are several herons making the most of the fish here.
After passing the small hamlet of Sallachy, we turn up a track towards Nonach Lodge and take a brief break. We reach the farm buildings at the end of the track and there is a handmade footpath sign pointing behind the cowsheds. We follow this but it leads to a marsh, so we skirt the sheds into a field where the way is much clearer. On the plus side, a surprised slow worm slithers by in the marsh past my feet.
We climb around the hillside, which is boggy in places, and make our way up Glen Ling. We are now back on one version of the Cape Wrath trail. According to a sign, the Scottish government had been pledged EU support to plant native forest here in Glen Ling, but there has sadly been little progress. We cross a footbridge then climb up to the bealach at about 250 metres (820 feet). We stop for lunch and three mountain bikers come by, the only people we have seen. They are a bit shell-shocked from cycling over the bog!
We now leave the wilderness for a forest track with stunning views of the Torridon mountain range. On the map, the network of tracks looks really confusing, but the route is quite obvious in reality. As we go along, I see a post with a scallop shell sign attached. This is usually the sign for the Camino de Santiago but I can find no evidence of a pilgrim route here. We follow the track into the valley, oddly called Attadale, to reach the shores of Loch Carron.
We now have to walk along the A890. The Cape Wrath trail guidebook states that this road is steep with blind bends and is very hazardous as cars pass along it at some speed. The book is unfortunately correct. We arrive at the Strathcarron Hotel unscathed, however, at the end of a satisfying day.
Total distance so far: 767 miles
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