Here we are again, not continuing the HoLEwalk as it's Autumn and I've only got a week's leave. Instead, we're using the time to complete the trinity with the shortest route: Hockering to Britain's most easterly point, Lowestoft: the HoLowalk. We checked the forecast on Saturday and it looked fine all week, so we booked our accommodation. 36 hours later and storm Babet is on its way. I didn't sleep well last night.
The morning, however, is sunny and clear, although the temperature is barely reaching double figures. I wear my new sports glasses (finally) for our leaving selfie, then immediately remove them as the wraparound varifocal lenses make me feel detached from my surroundings.
We set off following the initial steps of the HoLEwalk. Ideally, we'd go in the opposite direction but it's rush hour and crossing the A47 without a mid-road island is a terrifying prospect. We pass Tom waiting for his bus into college and he sheepishly acknowledges us, then go to the village shop to buy extra provisions. The colder weather means we'll need more calories.
We cross the A47 unremarkably, and head again down Mattishall Road. The trench is now filled in but the road will be closed for at least a further two years. This used to be our school run and I've even followed HGVs down here, but now the verges have grown in on both sides and, as we get past the barriers, there's little more than walking room.
We're not expecting much wildlife today, given the season and our proximity to trunk roads, but Rich soon spots a jay in the undergrowth. We then cross the river Tud then turn off our previous route into the dew-laden fields, startling a nearby heron as we pass. The paths here are vague and we usually come from the other direction but we follow the cow tracks, although we don't see any livestock. We pass into another field and soon see the cows up on a hill grazing in the sunshine.
We've now reached our usual walk for lunch to the Goat Shed farm shop and cafe which we discovered during lock down. It really was a shed then and had no cafe but had cannily stocked up on pallets of toilet rolls. We pass more cows at Berry Hall where we buy 10 foot Christmas trees every year. Across the road is the heavy plant for the new dual carriageway. Will we still be able to buy Christmas trees here once it's built?
We cross Berry's Lane and follow a familiar path through trees, squirrels scattering as we approach, the ground thick with beech masts. We go uphill through Honingham and regretfully forego a trip to the Goat Shed - we haven't gone far enough to stop as yet. We turn onto a beautiful, straight green track we've never noticed before, despite passing it countless times. It leads is past the village of Colton and we follow the road towards Marlingford. We have little choice but to follow roads as we need to cross the river Yare. At least they are quiet and the scenery is lovely.
We reach St Mary's church and, as ever, there is a bench where we can stop for a break. It has been erected in memory of David Austen and there is a model of a box brownie on the bench. A big thank-you to the friends and family of Mr Austen, who is buried close by. After our break, we carry on across the Yare, passing Marlingford mill.
We head off towards Great Melton (which is much smaller than Little Melton) and, back on a path again, pass a church with two towers. Great Melton was a divided parish in early Norman times, so had two churches and one churchyard. St Mary's has now crumbled, leaving only its tower next to the Saxon All Saints' church. I'm not sure how much either of them are used for worship now, but they certainly receive donations and have recently been removed from the Heritage at Risk Register. We then pass a series of keep out signs and razor wire warnings. This is Great Melton reservoir which is an angling club.
We then skirt the conurbation of Hethersett, leaving via another pretty green track. Here we meet Nathan, who I know from the operating theatres at work. He is walking along in the sunshine with his little daughter Amber, who is wearing a gorgeous shiny purple coat with a thick rainbow-coloured lining and black patent shoes. Nathan is showing his true Norfolk colours and is of course wearing shorts. It's lovely to see them and reminds us both of walking with Cathy when she was little.
We head on towards the roar of the A11. There is a footpath leading right up to it but it would require another dash across the dual carriageway and we decide that discretion is the better part of valour and take the road instead, crossing both the A11 and the railway. We head into Ketteringham and find a platinum jubilee bench in the village where we sit to have our lunch. We have made good time today but both of us stop to put plasters on our feet before carrying on.
After lunch, I put my sports glasses back on as I need to get used to them and, in any case, they block out the stiff easterly breeze that's now blowing. We're both still wearing our down jackets and Rich has his hands in his armpits. Mine are up my sleeves.
We leave Ketteringham via a narrow road called the High Street and soon arrive at the war memorial at fiveways crossing. From here, we take our last green lane down hill towards Lower East Carlton. There are buzzards around and, as ever in Norfolk, partridges, pheasants and rooks abound.
We pass through the village and enter a field of cows with a bull warning sign but no bull. The stiles are enormous and difficult to negotiate and we now appear to be following the Tas Valley Way, a 25 mile trail loosely following the river Tas. It finds its way via the sparse footpaths through land where access was severely curtailed by the Enclosures Act. This is where Robert Kett staged his rebellion, tearing down the enclosures in nearby Hethersett Common.
Interestingly, the route takes us across Swardeston Common, a rare remaining tract of common land. Swardeston itself was the birthplace of Edith Cavell. Rebellion and fighting for justice seem to be endemic around here.
Eventually, the footpath leads us to a road that we follow for a few hundred yards before turning into the byway for Mangreen, which is surprisingly busy. We finish the day at Mangreen Country House B&B, a beautiful country house probably built around 1700 for Henry Davy on a medieval moated site, though the only extant part of the moat was converted to a swimming pool (!). Our bedroom is in the eaves looking out across the fields.
Total distance: 16 miles
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