We struggled to find anywhere to eat last night, as few places take bookings and we left things quite late. On the advice of a local, we ended up at the Argyll Hotel. It was quiz night there and, as we had only just finished eating, we decided to participate. As a result of lucky Shakespeare questions, a numbers round and random knowledge of boy band music, the HoCWalkers won the quiz and a token for a free pizza, as well as a lot of good wishes for the rest of the walk.
After breakfast this morning, we drop off our laundry for a service wash, have coffee at the Ceilidh Place then wonder what to do next. As ever when we visit a town, it is all day closing day so the museum is shut as are several shops. We go to the Tourist Information Centre (number seven on TripAdvisor's list of things to do in Ullapool) to seek inspiration. They suggest a boat trip so we book one at the quayside, numbers and weather permitting, then head off to the famous Seafood Shack for lunch.
There are three options for boat trips: a day sail on the Caledonian MacBrayne ferry that we don't have nearly enough time for, a two to three hour trip in a small but sturdy yacht or one hour on an offshore rib powered by two outboard motors. Obviously, we choose the latter and are soon kitted out and ready to go.
Our guide is called Carlos and speaks Spanish accented English tempered with Scottish brogue. He warns is that the sea is rough today and we may not be able to venture too far out. As soon as we start, a shag lands next to the boat then dives under the water. Soon, we see more shags, a rock pipit, common seals and the larger grey seals as well as sheep picking their way along the rocky shoreline. The sea swell turns out to be not too bad and Carlos drives us on out to the Summer Isles, so called because locals used to graze their livestock there during the summer months. We don't spot any dolphins or porpoises but nevertheless it's an enjoyable trip looking at the landscape from a different perspective.
We land, collect our laundry, then head back to Tigh na Failte to sort our kit and do some mending before Yvonne arrives. Richard also tries to untangle his late mother's water bill, with the call handler erroneously informing him that they cannot discuss it because of 'data protection'. Eventually, he manages to pay them some money. We then meet up with Yvonne at the nearby Broomfield campsite, have very welcome tea and cake in her camper van and hand over the kit that we no longer need. We go to the Arch Inn for a seafood dinner, as recommended by our hosts, then say goodbye to Yvonne and head back for bed.
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